Friday, January 7, 2011

Jan 7 - Taos is a magical place!

Wow, what a place!  We've been busy and feel like we've barely seen the tip of the iceberg (which is a good metaphor because of the temperature - mid 30's during the day, and who knows what at night).  

Yesterday we went to the Taos Pueblo - this is a living world heritage site and is absolutely magical.  The native Americans have been living in this same pueblo for more than 1,000 years.  We were extremely lucky because Jan. 6th was the annual date of the Buffalo Dance (sometimes the Deer Dance).  We got there early and wandered thru the pueblo - no electricity or running water (and people live there!).  I wish I had photos, but we weren't allowed to take any because the dance was sacred.  

The elders danced and played drums.  There were probably 30 dancers that had on buffalo heads, and another 5 that had on deer heads w/full horns, and skins down their backs.  They had on loin cloths and moccasins and that was it.  It was surreal to think that the same dance has been done for 1,000 years in the same exact spot. If you ever go to Taos, try to schedule around one of the dances, they're definitely worth seeing.  

For lunch we ate at Abe's in Arroyo Seco - it's been there for 60+ years - wonderful tamales and tacos.  Arroyo Seco used to be home to a number of communes - it's still kind of funky today.  

On the spur of the moment we drove up to the ski area - from the little we saw it's definitely for experts.  You drive into a dead-end valley and the runs look like sheer drops from the top - apparently we could only see 1/30th of it, the rest is tucked around the back of the mountain.

Dinner was at El Meze - absolutely wonderful! North African and Spanish fusion - definitely a highlight for us!  The sopa verde was to die for. 

Today (Friday) was our last day and we decided to drive the "High Road" between Santa Fe and Taos.  In addition to the wonderful scenery, it is noted for having a number of pueblos as well as being a part of the Fiber Trail.  

We stopped first at the Cardona-Hine Gallery in Truchas - their paintings were wonderful, but way out of our price range. You can certainly see how the surroundings inspire their work.   

The absolute best stop was at Centinela Arts - they do traditional weaving and the weavers have won lots of awards for their work.  We were very lucky because Lisa Trujillo, one of the owners was there and she was wonderful about answering my questions.  The picture shows her weaving a contemporary piece which will be a large rug - the colors were beautiful.  It was all new to me, but wonderful.  I'm going to look into classes when we get to Phoenix.  


Maybe the best part was that there was another artist's work there who made Quechquemitl's - don't ask me how to pronounce it.  But I had to have the one you see in the picture - I can't wait to wear it.  The turquoise color is spectacular!

Our last stop was at the Pueblo Ildefonso where Maria & Julian Martinez revolutionized Indian pottery.  Their black on black pottery is amazing - John would have loved to have a piece, but the prices are in the thousands even for the small pieces.  Today their descendants carry the tradition but their pieces are out of reach as well.   

Tomorrow we head out for Farmington on our way to either Mesa Verde or to Monument Valley - weather dependent.  We'll really miss our wonderful B&B and our room w/the private patio and our kiva fireplace.  Brad was a fountain of knowledge and gave us wonderful recommendations about what to see and where to eat.  His stories were great and we listened avidly every morning over breakfast.  Breakfast...what can I say? Michael is the best!  Everything was fresh and homemade - from the best scones I've ever had in my life, to Tosadas Posada (like Huevos), to blue corn waffles, and fruit and yoghurt.  We always left full and more than happy!  If you ever come here this is a 5* stop and worth every penny.  We'll definitely be back to Taos to see the things we missed, and we'll definitely stay at La Posada de Taos.  

More on our journey soon!

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